Golden girl of haute couture blazes a trail

Mystery and majesty

At the exhibition opening, The Yellow Queen turns out to be a veritable crowd pleaser. "It stands out for its vibrant color and the way it captures the essence of regal elegance. The craftsmanship is impeccable," says exhibition visitor Vangie Tang.

Ruby Fung, a fashion designer-turned-gallerist familiar with Guo's creations, sounds particularly pleased with the show's curation. "Each piece touches you deeply, showcasing meticulous attention to detail, exceptional craftsmanship, and Guo's bold creativity," she says. Her favorite piece is The Qing-hua Porcelain from Guo's 1002 Nights collection (2009). "I admire how she translates the elegance of a porcelain vase into a dress. The silhouette, the curves and the drape are simply exquisite. And the extraordinary headpiece that includes a real vase is nothing short of stunning."

Another exhibition visitor, Cecilia Mao, casts her vote in favor of Da Jin (Magnificent Gold), which took more than 50,000 hours to complete and blends traditional Oriental craftsmanship with Western motifs. The gown's entire surface is embroidered with gold thread from India and consists of 29 vertical panels with a repetitive lotus pattern. "It exudes a mysterious and majestic aura, as if it is silently telling ancient stories. The beauty and impact of this piece are truly beyond words; it invites the viewer to pause and admire its artistry in quiet contemplation."

All eyes were on The Gold Boat from Guo's 2018 Elysium Collection. An upturned bamboo hull crafted by master weavers from Huangshan, in East China's Anhui province, serves as the farthingale of the piece. Covered in golden lattice, metallic flowers, and spiky branches, the gown is nothing short of jaw-dropping.

The Gold Boat's journey to M+ sounds almost as dramatic as the gown itself. "It caused a mini fight between M+ and another museum that wanted to exhibit it," says Yokoyama. Finally it was her innovative idea to display the mannequin wearing the piece like a rotating doll in a music box that won Guo over.