Regional holiday rituals leave lasting memories
Mouth-watering offerings mark a festival where family reunions and taste buds take priority, Li Yingxue reports.


In the Jiangsu-Zhejiang region of the two provinces, the first hint of Spring Festival flavors often emerges from the rich aroma of marinated delicacies. From the rafters of old homes to drying racks in alleyways, rows of marinated duck, dried fish and cured meats create a striking, fragrant scene.
He Xiaohua, 33, head chef of the Shan Ju Man Long chain, which has branches in Beijing and Shanghai, grew up in Hangzhou, Zhejiang. For him, the flavors of Spring Festival are closely tied to cured meats, such as bacon and marinated duck.
As winter sets in, families hang their homemade cured delicacies on balconies to air-dry. When it's time to eat, the meats are brought inside and sliced.
"Unlike northern China, where meats are cooked before marinating, we marinate ingredients raw and then dry them outdoors in Hangzhou," He explains. "Before refrigerators, this method helped preserve food. It's a tradition that has endured."
In Chinese culinary culture, sauces serve as a seasoning and a method of preserving. In the humid climate of the Jiangsu-Zhejiang region, marinating and drying foods in sauces are key techniques for preserving flavors, reflecting the region's culinary expertise.
This Spring Festival, He prepared a gift box with his own marinated dishes, including sausages and duck, each crafted with carefully blended sauces and dried to perfection.
"My mother relied on years of experience to perfect these recipes, but I've fine-tuned the proportions to ensure consistency," He says.