"Place your seat backs forward, your trays in their upright position … and keep your hands off my tail." Standard flight attendant patter? Not yet, but it could be next year, at least over the Atlantic, as British Airways flight staff get fitted for new uniforms from a glamorous young designer better known for dressing starlets in skimpy, sparkly couture. Designer Julien MacDonald, recently tapped as artistic director for the French fashion house of Givenchy, has been commissioned by the national carrier to revamp its staff uniforms. The several hundred-thousand dollar deal will put his uniforms on some 32,000 airline representatives by 2002. Although MacDonald has not yet gone public with his planned design, he says he has a 21st Century concept in mind. The uniforms will have "the MacDonald stamp; a tight waist and sharp silhouette. The main color will be navy and I'll be using lots of stretch material, which helps define the body." Macdonald explained his approach: "I want to bring glamour back to travel. That's what it's all about. The girls will look sexy and the men will look like strong heroes. They'll be the envy of other airlines." It's not the first time big-name designers have flown their fashions. Oleg Cassini did up TWA uniforms as far back as the 1950s. In the 1960s, Pierre Balmain designed a sarong-style Singapore Airlines uniform. And in the 1970s, Valentino created a hot pants outfit for TWA. But MacDonald's plans to bring the catwalk to the plane cabin are hitting turbulence, especially from the union that represents flight attendants. "Our members should not be dressed as sex objects," says a spokesman from the Transport and General Workers' Union, which has 44,000 members in the civil air transport section. "Some female stewards have voiced concern that a too-revealing uniform would be inappropriate and could lead to an increase in cases of harassment and 'air-rage' incidents." The union argues its members should be dressed in smart, functional and comfortable outfits. "For us the cabin crew are safety professionals, not marketing tools for British Airways," said the spokesman. "Female stewards are not dollies with trolleys." British Airways is taking the criticism in stride, arguing that MacDonald's intentions have been misunderstood. "In the world of fashion sexy is actually glamorous," Spokeswoman Camilla Wrey told ABCNEWS.com. "Glamorous is great and if the staff feel confident every day they come to work then they are able to offer the best level of customer service. We don't intend to turn them into sex objects." Wrey added that the unions will be involved until the final design decision is made and that the staff reaction so far has been very positive. The flight attendant has served as a kind of ambassador for the airlines since the 1950s, notes Keith Lovegrove, author of Airline. Lovegrove says that a glamourous look can help attract customers and increase airline ticket sales, citing the dramatic jump in customer base for Southwest Airlines in the early 1970s, when it dressed its flight attendants in high white leather boots and hot pants. But fashion can go terribly wrong too, adds the author. An example? The outfits worn by Denim Air flight attendants in the '70s, made up of neck-to-toe denim, denim shirt, denim trousers and bright red necktie with the top button of the shirt left undone to give a casual appearance. Concluded Lovegrove: "In the end the stewardess must have authority. If she looks right then one glance from her will make a grown man or woman sit down and belt up. If MacDonald does his job properly then this will be enforced." (Agencies) | "請將您的坐椅靠背調(diào)整到垂直,將您的托盤放正 ......不要摸我的屁股。" 這是笑容可掬、彬彬有禮的空姐招呼乘客的語言嗎?現(xiàn)在還不是,或許明年你就可以在英航的飛機上聽到這樣的招呼,至少在英航的大西洋航線上是這樣。知道嗎,英國航空公司的空姐們正在試穿由魅力四射的時裝設(shè)計師朱利安-麥克唐納設(shè)計的帶尾巴的新制服。而這位設(shè)計師最拿手的就是為剛露頭角的年輕女演員設(shè)計外露、耀眼的服裝。 朱利安-麥克唐納最近剛被法國紀梵奇時裝屋選中成為他們的藝術(shù)指導(dǎo),又受英航之托,重新設(shè)計這家航空公司的制服。為此,英航將支付數(shù)十萬美元的酬勞,到2002年,32,000名英航員工代表將身著由他設(shè)計的新制服。
麥克唐納雖然還沒有公開自己的設(shè)計計劃,不過他表示21世紀的設(shè)計理念已經(jīng)成竹在胸。制服將體現(xiàn)出"麥克唐納標牌:束腰,輪廓突出,主色調(diào)為海軍藍,并將大量使用有彈性的布料,從而突出優(yōu)雅的身材。"
麥克唐納對自己的想法解釋道:"我要把魅力帶到您的旅行途中,這就是我的設(shè)計宗旨。姑娘們看上去會非常性感,小伙子們看上去頗具英雄氣概。英航的制服將成為其他航空公司羨慕的對象。" 大牌服裝設(shè)計師為航空公司設(shè)計制服已經(jīng)不是第一次了。上個世紀五十年代,服裝大師卡西尼就為美國環(huán)球航空公司設(shè)計過制服;六十年代,皮埃爾-巴爾梅為新加坡航空公司設(shè)計了具有馬來群島風(fēng)格的圍裙式制服;到七十年代,瓦倫天奴又為環(huán)球航空公司設(shè)計了短褲式的服裝。 不過麥克唐納這次準備把機艙變成時裝展示臺的計劃確實引起軒然大波,尤其是代表機上服務(wù)人員的工會對此持有異議。 運輸業(yè)工會一發(fā)言人稱:"我們的成員不能被裝扮成展示性感的工具。有些機上女服務(wù)人員已經(jīng)表示,過于暴露的制服是不合適的,會增加騷擾事件的發(fā)生,容易造成乘客情緒沖動。"該工會包括民航系統(tǒng)的44,000名成員, 工會認為其成員的外裝的特點應(yīng)該是瀟灑、實用和舒服并重。該發(fā)言人還說:"我們的機組成員是確保旅行安全的人員,而不是英航開拓市場的工具。空姐不是只會推手推車的頭腦簡單、衣著性感的洋娃娃。" 英航對這些批評應(yīng)付自如,辯解說麥克唐納的初衷被誤解了。 英航發(fā)言人卡米拉-萊在接受美國廣播公司新聞在線采訪時說:"對時裝業(yè)而言,性感是魅力的表現(xiàn)。魅力是神奇的:如果空姐每天工作時感覺非常自信的話,她們就一定會給乘客提供最好的服務(wù)。我們并不是要把她們打扮成展示性感的工具。" 萊補充說工會將參與決定最終的設(shè)計樣本,他還說目前員工對公司的決定,反應(yīng)是積極的。 英航創(chuàng)始人凱茨-拉伍格羅夫解釋說,自20世紀50年代以來,空姐一直擔負著航空公司形象大使的角色。拉伍格羅夫稱富有魅力的形象有助于吸引顧客并提高機票的銷售額。他還引用了20世紀70年代早期西南航空公司成功的范例。當時這家公司的空姐身著短褲,腳穿白色的長筒皮靴,結(jié)果吸引了大批乘客。 拉伍格羅夫補充說,時裝的引入也可能起到相反的作用。最典型的莫過于戴尼姆航空公司空姐20世紀70年代的制服。這種服裝從上到下都是由粗斜紋棉布制成的,棉布襯衫,棉布褲子,配以色調(diào)鮮明的紅色領(lǐng)帶,襯衫的最上面一粒紐扣總是敞開著,給人一種非常不嚴肅的印象。 最后,拉伍格羅夫的結(jié)論是:"空姐自身要有威信。只要她看上去作風(fēng)正派,一個眼神就會讓乘客坐好并系好安全帶。如果麥克唐納設(shè)計不出偏差的話,他的設(shè)計將被英航采用。" (中國日報網(wǎng)站譯) |